Contact details and mailing address


Please note that we no longer import. We work just from our stock.

You can contact us using our contact form which is listed above in the main menu.

Our telephone number is +88 031 742097

Our address is Modartis Limited

MS-01 Building Road 2,

Factory Bay,


Chittagong 4200


We are so well known to our local post man that a package addressed to "Modartis, Chittagong, CEPZ, Bangladesh" would find it's way to us. Don't send us any packages by courier service before contacting us, because there are extra charges and lots of paper work for receiving courier service packages. We have a service charge of $50, on top of receipted costs, for paper work associated with clearing courier service packages. The post office is economical for many people as it only costs a few dollars for clearing packages. For the post office a declaration written on the package counts as a "Bill of Entry". Just write on the package that the items are 'unfinished metal figures' (for metal) or 'unfinished models' for plastic. If you call the goods anything else I will not be able to import them.

Some reviews of Reinforcements by Post painting service

Review Review about the cyclone - review at the end Review Review Review Review Review Review Comparison with other services Review You can also search for "Reinforcements by Post" in the title field on The Miniatures Page

Sending figures to us and what we stock

We have a stock of Baccus miniatures 6mm figures (almost everything), ready painted 15mm WW2, Vietnam and Modern Command Decision figures, 10mm 7YW, Afghan, Boer, and Zulu War, 28mm Napoleonics, AWI, and ACW. We also have 28mm ready painted WW2 figures. To save postage, you can have a manufacturer post figures to us. Contact us about this before you arrange anything. Anything you post should be carefully wrapped as international parcels tend to bounce around a lot. Bubble wrap is very effective. Pack out any empty space in your parcel with bubble wrap, or tissue, to stop items moving around.

Project instructions

Reinforcements by Post is a force multiplier; clear instructions are multiplied by the number of painters assigned to a project. We must have instructions in hand before we start a project. In the first case you should ask if we have instructions for the figures you want to have painted. We have instructions for most units in the Seven Years War, Napoleonic War, for many American War of Independence and French Indian War units as well as for many other periods. If we don't have instructions you will have to produce a table giving the colours for each item on the figure. We don't make painting instructions as this is a bottle neck for the service. Pictures on their own are not enough for project instructions. Painters don't have access to computers, so you will have to print out and include any pictures you want the painters to use. Anything which requires my personal attention will be more expensive. Where instructions are needed, try to create text which can easily be passed out to the painters. Don't write essays, just list the required colours in a table that covers everything. Going back and forth to find out colour of officer's saddle cloth, Shako cords, musician's details eats up time. For any project enough questions crop up without having to fill in missing instructions. We mix most colours from a pallet of twenty+ vallejo colours. In your instructions specify colours like mid-grey, sky blue, prussian blue, mid blue, pale yellow, field grey, olive drab etc. and not the Vallejo colour chart number which will cause us to go an look something up. We have painted many things before so often we know how something should be painted. In the first place discuss your project with us to save yourself writing unnecessary instructions. If you are very particular about something let us know up front. If this requires more of our time it will cost more. But that may be better for you than being unsatisfied with a project.

Be consistent with terminology that you use in your project. Don't refer to a unit as the Presidential Guard in one place and Kamanski's brigade in another. If several units form part of a group, for example highlanders, then list the members of the group as highlanders before the first use of "highlanders" to refer to the group.

You can't think of everything and mistakes are always made. So give us every clue to reconstruct your orders, as you want them, in case something is forgotten. Put a label into each bag telling us what the troops are. Let us know your unit structure (so many voltigeurs, etc). Make your basing system clear and include figure orientation. If you have included spare figures make sure we know what they are and put them in a separate bag, say if you want them painted only in the case of replacement of missing/broken in transit figures.

Preparing models

We will clean up a reasonable amount of mold lines on metal figures at no extra cost. Most modern figures are pretty clean. If figures are miscast it is better not to buy them. Figures with extensive mold lines will have some left at the end of the process. So choose your figures carefully. This is particularly true for vehicles, where some manufacturers produce models which require a lot of attention. We charge $0.15 to drill a figure's hand to prepare it for a weapon, typically a spear. We charge $0.50 to assemble plastic figures. Feel free to do it yourself to save money. If you want us to assemble mortars you must let us base them. Holding the model in place, without a base, waiting for it to glue together, is otherwise too awkward. We wash models in soapy water to remove grease and mold release.

Paint and painting style

We use Vallejo paint. We have twenty or so different paints and mix colours from them as needed. We can undercoat models white, black or grey. White is our preference as it gives a more attractive end result. Connoisseur standard figures are "dipped" using a gloss varnish containing a brown oil paint stain. Museum standard figures are painted, then inked with brown ink, before being highlighted. We have developed our style over seven years. If you want us to copy your style this will have to be discussed. If it takes more time than our regular work, or takes time to get into, it will cost more. Almost everyone is happy with our style. Models are typically finished with matt varnish, but you can stick with gloss varnish if you wish. Gloss varnish is a waste for Museum standard painted models as it kills depth of highlights. Connoisseur standard figures do not need to be "dipped" and can be plain gloss varnished if you like. We normally take 4-6 weeks to paint an order from delivery. If you have a deadline let us know, so that we can help you out.

Photographs for project approval

For custom painting we photograph a selection of figures for approval. If many units are similar, for example where you want to have a dozen British Napoleonic infantry battalions painted, we won't photograph a figure from each unit. We don't photograph ready painted figures for approval as they are exactly like those you can see on the web site.


If you are in the UK you can pay to my UK bank account. Elsewhere you can pay by paypal (adding 3% towards my paypal costs.)

Sending figures back to you

We wrap un-based figures individually in packing tissue, group them by unit, wrapping those in newspaper packets. For based figures we make little boxes for groups of bases and then pad those boxes with tissue. For every country, except Australia, we use puffed rice in boxes to stop items moving around. We build a 7 ply cardboard box to hold everything. This system has worked very well over the years. We use tracked, signed for, delivery by the post office. We will be able to give you a tracking code for your parcel once it it posted.


We specify two standards of painting; connoisseur, without highlights, and with "the dip", and Museum standard which is highlighted. Foot and mounted figures can be regular or high complexity. The complexity category into which a figure falls comes down to the time it takes to paint the figure, which depends on the amount of gear, lace, bags etc. on a model. For a given period, larger models (28mm and above) vary more in complexity than smaller models. So it is easier to say that a figure from period in a smaller scale typically falls into a particular complexity category. This is just because designers can fit more onto a larger model. Some people choose a particular manufacturer because their figures have more detail than others. If you choose more complex figures bear in mind that they will cost more to paint. Figures with more detail, such as Napoleonic officers, musicians, "polish" type lancers, British Hussars and Light Dragoons, Highlanders (basic cross grid design) are of high complexity. Extra detail on a figure can "bump" that figure up a complexity category. For example, Seven Years War (7YW) regular infantry are normally medium complexity, but Front Rank have very more detailed figures that are high complexity. If you are choosing figures because they are more detailed, bear in mind they will cost more to paint. Time is literally money. It costs us more time to paint non-uniform figures because we have to switch paints and that breaks up a production line. Connoisseur standard costs and extra 20% for non-uniform figures. Museum standard, where every shade has to be matched to a highlight shade, costs 50% more. We can paint your horses more cheaply if they have no saddle ($0.40 off). Figures that come with saddle work, but no horse are $0.40 more to paint. Camouflage is at two standards; three colour blobs, and a more effective standard that mimics the required camouflage for a given scale. The same techniques don't work at every scale.


For basing I follow these steps

**** OLD SYSTEM (on request only for 15mm+ (and small bases), standard for below that size)

  1. Cut the bases out of 2.5mm three ply wood
  2. Varnish the bases top bottom and sides to stop warping
  3. Glue figures onto base
  4. Fill from base up to figure to give a smooth transition (stops the bases standing out)
  5. Paint the base with a mix of sand and paint to give texture (dark sand colour)
  6. Highlight the base first with yellow ochre then white to demonstrate the texture
  7. Apply glue to *some* portions of the base and thereafter apply static grass

**** NEW CRUSHED SEA SHELL SYSTEM (default for larger bases/scales)

  1. Cut the bases out of 2.5mm three ply wood
  2. Varnish the bases top bottom and sides to stop warping
  3. Glue figures onto base
  4. Fill from base up to figure to give a smooth transition (stops the bases standing out)
  5. Fill the base with white glue
  6. Scatter crushed sea shells over the white glue
  7. Use a brown wash over the dry crushed sea shells
  8. Highlight the base first with yellow ochre then white to demonstrate the texture
  9. Apply glue to *some* portions of the base and thereafter apply static grass

Basing cost (our bases or customer bases)

  • $1 per base up to 35mm
  • $1 per additional 35mm square ground area
  • extra $0.50 to make edges rounded (my carpenter has to do this by hand!)

We price our bases according to how much time and effort it takes to make them. We have a full time carpenter who makes bases by hand. If you want a round base he will cut out a square and then use a chisel to chop off the corners and successive edges and finally sand the base into a circle. If you can source cheaper or better bases we encourage you to do so as we have a back log for making bases! One popular supplier of bases is LitKo Aero systems. Here is a link